First of all, a turtle owner needs certain equipment to make sure a good quality of life for his/her turtle. The most important ones are: a tank of reasonable size, a place for the turtle to warm itself, lights and food. In addition it is good to have many kind of small items to make the care more comfortable for both the turtle and the owner, such as towels (just for turtle-use), other equipment for the care and cleaning of the tank and ofcourse a fair amount of some medicine in case of small cuts or injuries. More of them is told in the part "RES as a pet". In this part more general info on turtlecare (this is also adaptable to other turtles but RES (also many other turles like families Chrysemus and Pseudemys).

BUYING A TURTLE

When you are about to get a turtle, it is allowed and highly recommended to use common sense. Like with any other pet, it is wiser to buy first the equipment and then get the pet. Usually it happens though that they are bought at the same time. And you must consider that a fish tank at most times is NOT a good aquaterrarium for a turtle. It is also NOT sensible to turn an old fishtank into turtletank just because you have it there standing empty.

When choosing the turtle in the pet shop you should chech that the turtle is in good condition (the skin, the eyes and the limbs seem all right) and the color (the skin and the shell) is normal. Of course best would be to have with you a person that knows some of turtles already. A healthy babyturtle does not like to be handled very much and shows it off by either withdrawing into the shell and/or by wriggling when held. And be careful, although they seem small, they have powers you might not guess just by looking them. So they may bounce of your hands, if you do not handle them properly. In the shop the turtles are usually about 3-5 centimeters (1,5-2 inches) long.


 
 
 

When a turtle is bought, it is better if you take it to see a vet, jsut in case. The vet may check the turtle in overall and give instuctions of the vitamins or worming if needed.
 

HANDLING A TURTLE

A turtle, especially a smll one, MUST not be lifted just by two fingers (one on both sides of the shell) though it might seem logical. The reason why, is the very powerful legs they have. They may, if handled with two fingers only, get free when wriggling and if you are not fast enough, they may drop to the floor and get hurt. The best way handling a small turtle is to take a good grip of the shell with one hand and place the other one under the turtle. Now the turtle does not feel like hanging in the air and is likely to be easier to handle.

For a bigger (or an adult) turtle it is better to take another kind of grip from the rear end of the turtle. Lift the turtle from between its rear legs (where the tail is) so that your thumb is on the carapace (the upper shell) and other fingers are below, under the plastron (lower shell). This grip is even tighter if you have rubber gloves on. This is a reasonable safe way to lift adult turtles around, but it is ALWAYS better to use TWO HANDS because of their powerful legs!!!!

Few other things to remember when handling a turtle are that their nails are sharp and the bite hurts. This goes for all over 7 cm (3 inches) turtles.



So do not wave your fingers for no reason in front of the turtle. The movement is so fast you don't see it, when the turtle bites you.
 


(This is of my own experience.) IF it happens so that the turtle does bite you, it is far more less painful just to wait until the turtle understands that it has bitten to something that is not dangerous or that it is not food and lets go than to try to pull the finger away from the turtle, because the turtle pulls to the other direction.

It is wise to cut the nails of the turtles especially if they grow fast and there is no natural way (rocks or sand) for the turtle to keep them short by itself. But you must always remember not to cut them too much at a time, for in the turtlenail there is a vain and a nerve and it hurts very much if they are cut down too deep. A little bit from the tip of the nail is quite enough.

Handle all your turtle staff with care, because (no matter how small) but there is always a possibility of salmonella infection. So wash your hands after handling the turtle or the equipment. The salmonelosis is only transmitted through mouth, NOT through the eyes or through the skin.
 

                            Environment of the turtle

Photoperiodism
First of all is important to arrange a natural-like photoperiod for summer and winter. This means a longer day and shorter night during summertime and during winter a longer night and a shorter daytime. This is done by adjusting lights (preferably with a timer)./font>

During summer time a day may be as long as 15-14 hours (as night is 9-10 hours) and winter time the night is 15-14 hours as daytime is 9-10 hrs. Transition between summer and winter time is done by adjusting the timer 15-30 minutes at a time once or twice a week in total time of 4-6 weeks.
 

Filters
Filter must be adjusted to the size of the tank and the turtle, the bigger turtle and the tank, the more efficient the filter must be. At this point you can buy peace of mind by investing more at one point. The more efficient the filter is, the longer the water in the tank stays bright and good.

It is recommended to have an outer filter in the tank. Smaller filters designer to be placed inside the tank are rarely if never sufficiently efficient to keep the tank tidy. A smaller filter may be in the tank to gather the skin particles from the water and to keep the water in motion to give some excersice to the turtle.

This is an example of an outer filter.

The filter should take in the amount of the water in the tank 2-3 times an hour (if the tank is 250 liters, the filter intake should be 500-750 litres an hour).

Water heater
In Finlan a water heater IS NOT NEEDED. If the water is too warm, the bacterial and the fungal infections are more likely. 20-22 degrees is fine, if the air is the same.

Especially with babyturtles a water heater is not good, beacuse too warm water (+26 centigrades Celsius) makes the turtle grow up too fast so the intestines may not grow up fast enough and the turtle may get sich later on.
 

Place for warming
Everu turtle must have a chance to climb to dry on solid ground, wheather it is a piece of cork, plexiglass or so. Also a lamp to provide the warmth is needed. A spotlight is good for this purpose. It is important to check that the spot is warm enough for the turtle (over 40 degrees centigrade, maybe 45) .(

In some instructions it is advised to keep an eye on the turtle for it may not stay too long on the warming place (at night time or so). This is not necessary, the turtle knows when to go to the water to cool. If you have doubts, check if the turtle is lively and healthy.




 
 


Virpi Louhi
virpi.louhi@herpetomania.fi

Copyright © 2001 Virpi & Henri Louhi